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Sherpa details Dawa Gelje Sherpa 11/02/67 Kurima
Da Gelje (2) 01/10/69 Tiu, Sanam
Da'Yula: 21/04/74 Pasang Gyelu: 02/12/65
Nima Tenzi 1978 Nyntso, Pangkongma
Namgyal: 05/10/77 Pasang Gombu: 26/10/69 Jangbu: 01/10/81 Chewang Palden: 06/02/74 Ngima Griman: 31/03/82 Pasang Kaji: 24/02/81
Bal Bahadur Lopchan: 01/10/76 Ramche, Rasuwa |
Our expedition historyHow did we do? You can check here for a brief summary. + means successful. See the Expedition dispatches section for photos and expedition diaries from 2004 onwards. SafetyUnlike most operators, we believe in full disclosure. Our statistics are all below, no massaging. Luckily we have not had a death on any expedition ever, and no frostbite on full Project Himalaya expeditions (yes, partly this is luck but management is also a big part of this). PH means a full Project Himalaya expedition; Jamie was fully responsible for
the expedition You can also see our Previous treks, sections in About us and the Photo galleries. 
Tom Kowpak on the summit of Everest - Jamie 2012 Spring Expeditions+- North Col - TibetIn the shadow of Everest we climb high! 24 Apr-17 May, 24 days -- jeep safari & expedition-style --
Jo Chaffer -- US$9950* Mike came prepared and made it to North Col, and had a fun trip. Climbing is climbing so Debbie and James wisely turned back as they approached their limits... 
The North Col team, Mike, Jo (leader), Debbie and James (Sven) - Jamie - 2012 Shishapangma - TibetWhile all the main companies are on Everest we sneak up Shishapangma! 21 Apr-2 June, 43 days -- Luke Smithwick -- US$15,950* The 2012 Shishapangma expedition was an excellent adventure. We didn't manage to make the true summit during this particular good weather season window, as a matter of fact, no one summitted even the "Central summit" of the mountain this season, contrary to several reported successes. Why? Simply because the mountain was bony with hard blue ice pitches, exposed rock that is usually snow covered, and wickedly persistent winds. Teams attempted several different routes on the north side of the mountain with no true success. While Shishapangma is the lowest of the 14x 8000 meter peaks, it remains a wild, untamed, and well-guarded summit that few attain; unlike its lofty neighbors. See the expeditions dispatches page for links to the dispatches. Raphael has a set of expedition photos on flickr and here is excerpt of his summary: "I really enjoyed this 6-week expedition. I joined a great team of climbers, with a positive attitude and willingness to summit; our Sherpas (Gyalzen, Ngima and Kaji) provided excellent support; and the food was succulent, thanks to our cook, Karma. I was looking for a different experience from my 2010 Everest expedition, and I was not disappointed. First of all, being surrounded by the Tibetan plateau at 5000 meters (16,400 feet), we were able to approach Shishapangma by car right up to Base Camp. That was a real change versus the classic trekking approach in Nepal. Secondly, we were almost alone on the mountain (5 expeditions, altogether). In fact, after May 22, we were the only expedition on Shishapangma. During the summit push, there were only 6 climbers on the mountain (from Advance Base Camp to the summit)! In 2010, on Everest, between Camp 4 and the summit, there were 200 climbers. I felt very lucky to be able to climb an 8000-meter peak almost alone." + 2012 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PHGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to your safety and success. 9 Apr-7 June, 60 days -- +Jamie McGuinness
-- US$40,000* Success! Tom topped out with Dawa Gyalgen, and myself with Bali - his first summit! Both Tom and myself had horrible chest infections, so doubly well done. That is a long, tough and dangerous summit day. Thanks again to Kami, Dawa Gyalgen and Pasang Gyelu for good, often great, and always hygienic meals. See the expeditions dispatches page for plenty of links.
Tom Kowpak on the summit of Everest - Jamie + 2012 Everest Expedition - Nepal - PHWe are catering for several different teams, with room for more so talk with us! 7 Apr-2 June, 57 days -- Chris Klinke
-- US$47,980* What a curious expedition, I am sure Chris will agree. Raffi and Sam faced a medical emergency that threw them, and Sam returned to the mountain rather too quickly, having to be evacuated again. Returning together one more time didn't work either but at least they tried. Serious congratulations to Wasfia, who summitted despite long odds, and has another tick on her seven summits quest. Also a BIG thanks to Chris Klinke whose able leadership ensured everything worked as well as possible, and a big thanks also the sherpa crew. Ngima and team did a fantastic job in the difficult and dangerous conditions of the season. See the expeditions dispatches page for links to the dispatches. + Mountain Trip Everest Expedition - MTExpedition Himalaya and myself provide support for Mountain Trip's very successful Everest expeditions. Here is the crew list only, for our public records. Climbing sherpas: Pasang Gombu, Sonam Tsering, Karma Gelje, Da Ongchu, Samden, Da Kusang, Temba,
Pasang Karma, Kaji, Da Finjo - Hiunchuli 6441mWe trek into the stunning Annapurna Sanctuary for a lightweight expedition style 6000m peak ascent. 2-24 Mar, 22 days -- teahouse and alpine style -- Luke Smithwick -- US$2,450 + Aconcagua Expedition - PHThe last Aconcagua expedition, 100% success! The standard route "features" 2000m of scree - not for me! Instead we climb the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain, and as a triple bonus for Everest aspirants we talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest. 5-25 Feb, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain
services -- +Jamie McGuinness
-- US$3650* Summit success! That makes five out of five times on Aconcagua. We all topped out on what I was hoping would be a perfect day, instead it was probably the best day of the period, but still some wind in the morning (a cold Caneletta). A gorgeous panorama from the top though - wish I had a camera with me. More than a summit though we had a good, low key trip with a few nights under the bright stars. While our team was definitely on the small side, the issues experienced by some of the large teams were quite surprising. I think we have the right setup. 
Arabella, Peter and Jamie on the summit of Aconcagua - Jamie 2011 Expeditions+ Aconcagua Expedition - PHThe standard route "features" 2000m of scree - not for me! Instead we climb the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain, and as a triple bonus for Everest aspirants we talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest. 2011: 3-23 Dec, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain services --
+Jamie McGuinness
-- US$3650* 100% summit success! It was a chilly day though and tempered by Dan's frost nip partly due to close-fitting boots, and a few burnt noses-lips. It was a tough expedition in other ways too, believe it or not, from lots of fine weather. While we had rain on the way in, once on the mountain it was continuously fine with a good forecast for our earliest possible summit day, and so we hauled loads continuously, and even with a little portering from myself, still meant that we were carrying extra supplies for an extended trip. So in the end the team paid for some extra porters rather than wear themselves out. Our 100% success wasn't unique, among teams on a similar timeframe, well done Papa Smurf's Swiss team of three, but the bird people as Dan labelled them (most had beaks, or nose protectors) didn't fare well, with only eight of the 20+ climbers-guides summitting, and proving that the no Diamox regime that Argentinean guides seem to be so fond of, definitely leads to lower success rates, even if Michele did get dehydrated with us (thanks, Dr Amy for the diagnosis). Success comes with rewards too. Wasfia was the first Bangladeshi to summit Aconcagua - heartfelt congratulations. With Michele's finicky knee, Dan's toes and Markus only in plastic boots, a BC to Horcones chopper ride was more than a joyride, medically useful too, and with everyone a little lighter, four squeezed in for a heart-stopping adrenaline ride down, starting lots more BC enquiries as it really was good value. Photos? Check out Dan's open G+ set, and note he only had a fisheye lens (long story) and an 85mm equivalent, hence the interesting angles. Wasfia's seven summits photos are on an open Facebook page. For a change Jamie didn't have a camera so you are spared there. 
Dan, Amy, Shane, Jamie, Markus, Wasfia and Michele at the park entrance - photo by Wasfia +- 2011 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PHGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to your safety and success. 10 Apr-8 June, ~60 days -- Jamie McGuinness
-- US$35,000 Our expedition went so well, except for the most important day, summit day. Earlier weather forecasts indicated a fine period of some days and we picked what we thought was the best, and one day different from a large team. The forecast was updated by a professional forecaster while we didn't have internet access. However instead of the wind dropping at 3am, it increased and by 7am it was obvious that it wasn't going to stop so we had to abort the summit push and most people turned back. Unfortunately this was the right decision, and snow conditions on the route were also difficult. Only Kenneth Koh continued with three sherpas, and summitted with a lenticular cloud (wind cloud) over the summit. Ken became the second Singaporean to summit on the north side. We were not alone is misjudging the weather, the Mountain Trip team on the south side spent two nights at South Col, Russell Brice aborted his team's first summit push at C3 and quite a number of other teams summitted in rather different conditions from expected. In La Nina years it seems the computer models might be less accurate? Or perhaps the Iceland volcano eruption messed the models up? See our dispatches and Grant Rawlinson's blog. Photo galleries to come. Journey to the Summit of Mt. Everest from Kenneth Koh on Vimeo. + 2011 Mountain Trip Everest - Nepal - MTYou want the best expedition on the south side? Mountain Trip... 100% success for this expedition.
Team: +Scott Woolums, +Bill Allen, +6 clients 100% success rate again! See the expedition dispatches. + Aconcagua 8000m Preparation ExpeditionWe talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything Everest, on the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain! 7-27 Feb, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain services --
+Jamie McGuinness
-- US$3650+~$325/660 -- full Success and what a wonderful expedition experience. For the third year in a row Jamie picked the best day of our summit window, a great summit day, breezy as we set off but no wind on top, and Mendoza lived up to its lofty reputation. Thanks to the trekker girls for joining and enlivening the trek in, it was sad to see them go, and we never quite managed to choose Malbecs as well afterwards. It was also a shame that Matt with supportive tent mate Ian returned early with a worsening pre-existing condition. So that left a team of seven of us for the climb, carrying our own loads and eating David's roadrunner dust. Probably because of the La Nina system, it was a damp trek in, eating steak and salad in drizzle, rather than the t-shirt heat of the seasons before. It was also snowy on the mountain, with mountain boots needed above Camp 1. Luckily the single skin tents held up even if they were not as suitable for the conditions as in years previous, although they were still the lightest and strongest of tents, important when we are carrying our own loads and when the mountain is as windy as Aconcagua can be. I am not a fan of the Argentinean way of simply camping higher until you summit or are turned back by the winds, I much prefer to pick a summit window and in contrast to the last two times, there was no waiting, rather we pushed up sticking close to the ideal itinerary, summiting on the 20th of Feb. Due to a worsening cough picked up at home prior, Sam as personal guide to Rafi was not able to prepare logistically as well as needed for the summit and with them leaving later than the rest of the team, and unfortunately this stopped Rafi's summit attempt very close to the summit. With a snowy squall coming in and the real risk of lightning strikes, I was forced to turn Rafi around above 6900m only 20 heartbreaking minutes from the summit. Rafi, in addition to being camp jester (entertainer) proved to be tough too, waiting with myself and Esther an additional two days to claim a true summit (and double summits for myself and Esther). However it was not to be, with windy, snowy conditions that stopped all but the most hardcore summiting. Luckily we bailed when we did as it snowed heavily as we walked out. Another disappointment and surprise was David's lightly frost-nipped finger ends, probably from fixing crampons in the cold, luckily they will recover quickly. It was a tough season for other climbers though, with perhaps 6-7 deaths on the mountain and some nasty frostbite cases. Afterwards Mendoza didn't disappoint with its glorious climate, fireworks, a beauty contest and the finding of two great restaurants. We even hit the wine festival for the third year in a row. And thanks from everyone to Rafi for hospitality above and beyond the call of duty, and several of us will most definitely be visiting his home base, another one of the world's major party cities, Beirut (Lebanon)! Yep, it really was a fun an successful expedition! See Kenneth Koh's brief blog entry and his Flickr photo set. Also see Jamie's Picasa page and slide shows:
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2011 Aconcagua team: Sam, Ben, Jamie, Matt, Demet, Miriam, Raffi, Ian, Esther and David in front - Photo © Kenneth Koh/Adventure Nomad
2010 Expeditions+ 2010 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PHWe return with a small team for a full support, guide assisted expedition. We understand and know the north side, have our very own weather forecasting guru and a reliable and strong sherpa team. Follow us!
Tibet: 8 Apr-6 June, 60 days -- all mountain services --
Jamie McGuinness -- US$29,950 Eric and Barry summitted and overall the expedition went well. See the Expedition summary that also covers our other two Everest expeditions.
Congratulations! Barry Cohen on the summit, 24 May 2010, 3:05am Nepal time + 2010 Mountain Trip Everest - Nepal - MTYou want the best expedition on the south side? Mountain Trip...
Team: +Scott Woolums, +Bill Allen, +5 clients 100% summit success! Lucky, yes, in part, but ultimately everyone who was capable of summiting with high flow oxygen, did, which involves substantial logistics. Congratulations, Scott and everyone. See Scott's 2010 dispatches (despite the 2009 tag). + Aconcagua 8000m Preparation Expedition - PHCan't get to Nepal for a prep expedition? We bring it closer to the Americas... We talk over the big mountains, gear, strategies, everything, on the superior Plaza Argentina route and as a double bonus we traverse the mountain! 7-27 Feb, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain services --
+Jamie McGuinness
-- US$3650+~$325 Lets face it, half the reason to climb Aconcagua is to experience the city of Mendoza which Nat Geo rates it as one of the 10 best cities to visit... We did, and also climbed the mountain. See the detailed Aconcagua debrief and see Jamie's Picasa slide show. 
The 2010 Aconcagua team in Penitentes, L-R: Ken, Malcolm, Tom and Jamie - Jamie 2009 Expeditions- Tukuche 8000m Preparation Expedition - EH-PHWe head to a convenient and straightforward ~7000m peak to discuss and develop skills for climbing 8000m peaks and Everest. 26 Oct-28 Nov, 34 days -- all trekking and mountain services included -- US$5750 Well, this trip definitely did not go to plan and my sincere apologies for this. First Phil Crampton was unable to lead it and so two people dropped out. Once up in the mountains the weather didn't cooperate either, with around a metre of snow falling. Despite this the crew (and team) didn't bail, instead stuck it out but getting high was not possible. + Monsoon Tukuche Climbing Camp - EHWe have the base camp and permits, you climb how you want. 10 Sept-13 Oct, 34 days -- all trekking and mountain services included -- local guide -- US$5000 An all star crew, even Kami, the cook, has climbed Everest! + Manaslu Expedition 8163m - AJ-PHManaslu again after our 2008 success! The mountain is only marginally more technical than Cho Oyu but has less reliable weather and other conditions. This is a full guide-assisted expedition with Phil Crampton as guide-manager (bonus, it is $3000 cheaper than Cho Oyu, and free of political troubles too). 30 Aug-23 Oct, 55 days -- all mountain services included --
Phil Crampton -- US$10,500 Follow the Manaslu dispatches! - Gasherbrum II (and I) Expedition 8035m - Pakistan - AJ-PHWe go to GII and also a back up plan on GI; if conditions are bad on GII then they are likely better on GI. GII: 6 June-30 July, 55 days -- Phil Crampton -- US$9950 No summit, either the wind was howling or it was snowing, see the G2-G1 dispatches page for links and more details. |
L-R: Michael Odell, Arian Lemal, Ian Cartwright, Phil
Crampton, Tarke, Mark Horrell, Sherap,
Ashad Karim (head cook),
Temba, Shezad Alam, Gorgan, Ehshan Ullbaig (kitchen
assistant, with the fingers), Pasang Lama
Philippe Pasang Gomba, Gordon
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+ 2009 Everest Expedition - Nepal - PH-AJGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success.
Nepal: 9 Apr-5 June, ~58 days -- +Phil Crampton -- US$35,000 See the Project Himalaya dispatches link page and also see Phil's dispatches. + Everest expedition supportEnjoy quality BC and ABC support with backup built in. This option is only available for teams with previous 8000m experience. Nepal: 9 Apr-5 June, ~58 days -- Manager: Phil Crampton, Sarki and Dawa Gelje 2009 Everest Expedition - Tibet - EHPrimarily we are providing professional support for a number of self-guided teams, and also have a small team of climbers with Jamie. If Tibet opens Chomolungma with restrictions we can handle, then we will climb from the north. If it is closed/too complicated, we go south side.
Tibet: 5 Apr-6 June, ~62 days --
Jamie McGuinness -- US$27,500 With the uncertainty of Tibet opening several climbers and a self-guided team switched to the south side, others cancelled. One team still planned to go but the last, most difficult permit eluded them so there was no expedition. Shishapangma Expedition support - TibetThis is a small expedition for independent climbers, ie BC-ABC support only, although good sherpas are available. Apr-May, 45 days -- BC-ABC support
-- US$ please ask Cancelled by Andrew. Initially we planned entry on 9 April and when this was pushed out to 11 April with some uncertainty, and unsure signals from Tibet, Andrew and Hector bailed. As it happened in the end a couple of expeditions entered Tibet on 14 April. + Aconcagua Expedition - PHProject Himalaya runs their first Aconcagua Expedition in preparation for an 8000m Preparation expedition... 7-27 Feb, 21 days -- all trekking and mountain services --
+Jamie McGuinness
-- US$3650+~$325 Success! See the Aconcagua galleries on this site and also see Jamie's Picasa Gallery. 2008 Expeditions- 8000m Preparation Expedition - PH-AJWe head to Kang Guru, a convenient and straightforward 7000m peak to develop skills for climbing 8000m peaks and Everest. 17 Oct-15 Nov, 30 days -- all trekking and mountain services included -- Phil
Crampton and Namgyal -- US$5800 When we have a trip up and people book, we run it. At first it looked as if this expedition would be small, but even in the days just before leaving, we had more last minute bookings, and ended up with a diverse team. See the dispatches page for a summary, and the dispatches. + Manaslu 8163m - Nepal - PH-AJLet's try Manaslu! The mountain is only marginally more technical than Cho Oyu but has less reliable weather and other conditions. This is a full guide-assisted expedition with Phil Crampton as guide-manager. See Phil's dispatches (link to come). 1 Sept-20 Oct, 50 days -- all mountain services included -- +Phil
Crampton -- US$9950 We did well! Phil wrote expedition dispatches, and I have added some thoughts too. + 2008 Everest Expedition - Nepal - PHGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, the best weather forecasts, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success. Old: 13 Apr-9 June, 58 days --
Jamie McGuinness -- US$25,000 We climbed Everest from the south side as the Chinese closed the north side due to the Olympic torch. See the dispatches! Also see the photo gallery, there are three pages of best photos, of the trek, the icefall and the summit climb. |
Our team L-R: Sarki (cook, BC manager), Sonam (new kitchen crew) Dawa (sirdar), Jangbu, Pasang Gombu, Kami, Da'Ongchhu, Tawa (C2 cook), Jamie, Raphael, Nima Tenzi, Andy, Gina, Anselm, James
And on the other side of the chotar: Nawang Geden, David, Pasang Gyelu, Mindu, Tarke, Mingma Lhakpa (kitchen) and Chewang Palden, missing Namgyal
Photo by Gombu with Jamie's camera on a tripod
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2007 Expeditions- Shishapangma - Tibet - PHWe know the mountain and it makes a great alternative to the crowded Cho Oyu in this season. Seriously, in the 2006 Fall season there were 550+ climbers and sherpas on Cho Oyu — think about that! We will be posting dispatches. 1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days -- includes Lhasa --
Jamie McGuinness
-- US$10,500 See our dispatches from the mountain! Yuck, seriously windy weather lasted the whole expedition and so nobody summitted Shishapangma this season (and very few teams even summitted Cho Oyu). We tried, really tried, but the winds just did not stop. We had a really fun expedition all the same. - Shishapangma Skills Expedition - Tibet - PHThis is our training trip for Everest 2008. Sure, we attempt Shishapangma with good support, and we also discuss everything Everest and get you familiar with everything you need for Everest. 1 Sept-16 Oct, 46 days -- includes Lhasa -- Eric Remza with
Namgyal -- US$10,500 Everyone was included in the fun - and the bad winds. Building up to Everest showed some weaknesses with several climbers, but also Shishapangma didn't let us truly test everyone to 8000m. - Shishapangma BC-ABC servicesWe provide support you can trust with backup built it. 2 Sept-16 Oct, 45 days -- ask for details I really feel for Andrew Lock, who is back after several previous attempts on the mountain. As several others have written while sometimes Shishapangma's central summit is considered straightforward (and Andrew has climbed that), there really is only one true summit, the main, and that has challenged the best climbers time and time again. I also feel for Mark Hose, on his second attempt. Logistics proved tough on his first expedition last year. This time he seemed to have these sorted out, only to be thwarted at the same height by that weather. - Gasherbrum II Expedition 8035m - Pakistan - PHWe also have a support trek. Follow us live, see the dispatches... 18 June-11 Aug, 55 days --
Jamie McGuinness
-- US$8500 See the expedition dispatches. This was a difficult expedition. The weather was extremely unkind with snow roughly every three days, and it takes two-three days for the avalanche danger to clear so we never had a chance even to get high on the mountain. With part of the team wanting to push harder, they arrived at Camp 2 but a team one day ahead set an avalanche off that killed two climbers. A couple of people had permits for Gasherbrum I as backup but here again we helped bury one person (not from our team) and with other complications we ended the expedition. |
The Gasherbrum II expedition team and crew
Standing L-R: Clive, Humphrey (climbing partially independently), Ian, Ashraf, Hameed, Ibrahim, Tia, Jahan Beg, David, Jamie and Merhban
Squatting, L-R: Catherine, Mah Di, Adrian, Soren (front), Kees, Mehdi and Wolam
Nabi - photo by Jamie
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+ 2007 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH w DCXPGuide-assisted with full support, surprising flexibility, comprehensive and reliable with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services. Above all we are dedicated to safety and success. Follow our dispatches live from the mountain! 14 Apr-9 June, 57 days, includes Lhasa -- +Jamie McGuinness
with +Namgyal Sherpa -- US$24,500 
5 June 2007, Kevin on the summit of Everest - photo by Ngima Chhiri - Lhakpa Ri 7045m & North Col 7010m - Tibet - PHIn the shadow of Everest we climb high! 15 Apr-6 or 9 May, 22 days -- expedition-style -- Jamie
McGuinness and Namgyal Sherpa -- US$4950 2006 Expeditions- Shishapangma Expedition 8027m - PHOur 2005 expedition was very successful with 6 out of 8 members up to the Central summit, and our Cho Oyu plus Shishapangma team also succeeding on both peaks. This season we want to climb the central summit and also some of us get to the main summit. Last year we were very close, this year we will succeed! Shishapangma is a straightforward mountain, with an exciting semi-technical summit day. Lhasa start: 30 Aug-15 Oct, 47 days -- Guide manager: Jamie McGuinness --
US$10,500 + $600 safety deposit Read the dispatches and see the photos. We didn't summit due to avalanche danger on summit day. + Shishapangma BC-ABC servicesWe provide support you can trust with backup built it. 2 Sept-15 Oct, 44 days -- ask for details Read the dispatches and see the photos. I�aki climbed the Main summit by a new route in difficult conditions, making it his 11th 8000m summit, only three more to go. It was quite a climbing feat by any standards, and all the more so because he climbed in atrocious conditions. + 2006 Everest Expedition - Tibet - PH w DCXPThis year our service will be guided with full support, comprehensive and reliable with rescue planned for, plenty of oxygen, email and many other services too. We begin with a trek on the south side of Everest then head to Tibet 'late', but can still summit as early as 13 May - or as late as 6 June. 3 Apr-10 June, 69 days -- full support -- Guide-manager:
+Scott Woolums with assistance from +Jamie -- US$22,000 -- expedition full What an expedition - we had a great team of people, see our expedition dispatches. Our expedition had no injuries while there were nine deaths on the North Side. Our sherpa team helped with rescues but otherwise steered clear of trouble. + 2006 Everest Peace Expedition - EH and independentSpreading peace and religious tolerance around the world, sponsored by Panasonic Toughbooks and others. Yes, this will be a high profile expedition! Jamie is the climbing director, and the Atheist climber. We have a Palestinian climber, Ali Bushnaq and two Israelis, Dudu and Mica. Gautam, the Hindu on the team, hopes to become the first Indian to complete the seven summits. 4 Apr-10 June, 68 days -- Leader:
Lance Trumbull -- Climbing leader: + Jamie McGuinness See the Everest Peace Project website. Also see Jamie's dispatches relating to both expeditions, and great summit photos. **The DVD is out and it is inspiring, amazingly professional and a great tale - worth watching! See the EPP site. |
Dawa (centre) and a happy team on top.
L-R: Chewang Palden, Pasang Gomba, Kami Dorje, behind standing Anne Parmenter, Dawa Gelje, Mindu Tsheri,
Tarke,
five out of the eight sherpas that summitted
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2005 Expeditions+ Shishapangma Expedition 8027m - PHNormal North-east ridge route. Jamie has been there twice before to the Central summit and really wants to get to true summit. We can do it, given good conditions! As an option Cho Oyu afterwards is possible. 4 Sep-18 Oct, 45 days -- Guide manager: ++Jamie McGuinness --
US$9600 + $600 safety deposit Most people summitted, very successful and safe - see the Shishapangma expedition dispatches. 
Standing L-R: Tshering Dorje, Tawa, Jamie, Dorje, Scott Streett, Dawa Gelje,
Greg, Ed K, Pasang, Dr Warwick + Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHCho Oyu is HIGH and often called 'easy' but there are plenty of significant challenges. Our guided expedition has strong support and good backup; if you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get and we provide it! 30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- guide-assisted -- Guide-manager:
+ Andrew Lock -- US$10,000 
L-R: Dawa Chhiri, Mike Norris, Seba Illingworth, Andrew Lock, Inigo and Billi Bierling + Cho Oyu expedition 8201m - TibetGreat base camp support. Sure, you can find cheaper but we offer more safety and more flexibility, and once the differences are counted, we are almost comparable in price. 30 Aug-13 Oct, 45 days -- BC-ABC support -- US$5500 They climbed independently but shared base camp with Andrew Lock's team. + Everest Expedition - Tibet - PHWe are offering comprehensive and reliable BC-ABC services with rescue planned for, spare oxygen, email and plenty of other services too. 3/4 Apr-7 June, 65 days --
Jamie McGuinness --
US$10,000 + oxygen + sherpa Success! See the dispatches for this expedition. And more importantly, we lost no members to sickness, we had no frostbite, and were the only expedition to finish with one more member than we started with! Special thanks to Doctor Julian, who did such a great and much appreciated job both with our and for other teams. 
Julian on top of the world - photo by Dawa 2004 Expeditions+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PH and support onlyWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our Fall climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get. 5 Sep-19 Oct, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $9900 See the dispatches for some great photos of the expedition. 
Gurla Mandhata 7728m - TibetReal exploration! We acclimatize with a kora of Kailash, said to cleanse the sins of a lifetime, then head to the mountain. Apparently it is 'straightforward' but we don't know much else. 6 Sep-16 Oct --
Jamie McGuinness -- $7728 + Broad Peak 8046m - Pakistan - for another companyJamie guided Field Touring Alpine's Broad Peak Expedition. 16 June-5 Aug, 51 days. Service: professionally lead by Jamie McGuinness. Cost: $6150 - budget price, budget service. Success! See the dispatches for a diary of the expedition, also see their Karakorum8000 website. *Jamie was the first kiwi (New Zealander) to climb the true summit of Broad Peak! 
+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get.
11 Apr-25 May, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $9900 See dispatches for a diary of the expedition. This expedition was frustrated by sickness, Cryptosporidium (or Cyclospora, I forget which) from the Tingri water, and we worked out the cure a little late, despite the fact we had two doctors with us. Looking back on the expedition, while there were some strong members, it was a more diverse team than we were used to. 
Dawa, Namgyal and Jamie on the summit of Cho Oyu - Photo by Catherine? 2003 Expeditions+ Shishapangma Expedition 8012m - PHJamie has been there before and this time is serious about getting to the true summit. We can do it! 31 Aug-11 Oct, 42 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $8800 Success! And we were the only commercial group that made it to the top. Naturally we were aiming for the true (Main) summit, but only made the 8008m Central summit, as did a bunch of notable mountaineers who REALLY, REALLY wanted to get that true summit. Conditions were too tough. Shishapangma is still waiting its first Australian summit. See the Shishapangma Expedition photo galleries of this trip. 
With the summit cake: Richard, Temba, Dawa, Jamie (bearded), Pasang, Nicola, Phil (yellow jacket), Nigel (red jacket) + Everest Expedition 8848m - EHSee www.NIEverest.com - Success! And we have a photo gallery too. April-May Jamie organized the Nepal-Tibet side of things for Richard Dougan, Jamie also came along as climbing sherpa. Dave and Richard made an attempt on 22 May without sherpas and were turned back around the second step by frostbite. It was a nasty day to try to summit. Banjo and myself waited until the very last moment for some perfect weather and summitted 31 May 2003. See the Everest Expedition photo gallery series.
2002+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort, but with more freedom than any other foreign company gives. We think innovatively and differently from most other companies and have the energy to get you there. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get... 14 Apr-28 May, 45 days -- +Jamie McGuinness -- $8800/€10,000 On the guided trip Tony came down with an unexpected but recurring problem and quickly decided when feeling sick there are better, more comfortable things to do in life. Myself and Dave summitted on 14 May, as did Tshering, our cook (who has also climbed Everest). We said we would run a guided expedition no matter how many bookings we got. We ran this expedition with only two bookings. If we say we are going, we will! We also provided BC-ABC support for a few people: David Lim tried Shishapangma, getting to approx 7700m in deep snow and on Cho Oyu, climbing on a difficult day, got to approx 7800m before the steep fixed ropes took their toll, a great effort by someone who only has power equivalent to one and a half legs. Allain and Caroline suffered some bad luck, first Caroline's face swelled badly after some sun and then Allain found it difficult to acclimatize. So while none of our ABC service clients summitted, we provided good, flexible service that everyone appreciated. 2001- Arun Treks & Expeditions USA Cho Oyu 8201m - PHA private group partly sponsored and writing for National Geographic Adventure magazine. The article appeared in the Oct-Nov 2002 issue, a story of Mike getting to know his sister - or rather not really getting to know her. Dates: Sept-early Oct. Guide-manager: Jamie McGuinness.
Route: standard. We tried, and tried, but the continuous high winds conspired against us (and AAI, Adventure Consultants, Mark and Kathy's team etc). So after eight nights at Camp 2 or so we descended for the best ABC party ever, read the article... - Noshaq Expedition 7492m - Pakistan - privateAfghanistan's highest mountain, but ours was one of the first serious attempts from the Pakistan side. Dates: late June-mid Aug. organized by Martin and Karl, I
simply joined the trip. We didn't summit. The account is is the Trip diaries section and there's a day by day itinerary too. + Cho Oyu Expedition 8201m - PHWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as BIG mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our spring climb is a fully supported and guide-assisted effort. If you pay this much money you want the best shot you can get... All staff have worked/summitted on the mountain previously. Dates: 15 Apr - 29 May. Service: guide-assisted.
Guide-manager: +Jamie McGuinness. Cost: $8500. Success in challenging conditions! And no injuries. See the account... and some pictures. 2000+ Shishapangma 8012mAlthough we had plenty of expeditions on Cho Oyu and Shishapangma (successful and without injury), none required a western-managed service so Jamie climbed Shishapangma unsupported and alone. Dates: end of Aug - early Oct. +Jamie McGuinness. See the diary and there is also a quick day by day itinerary. 1999+ Cho Oyu Expedition 8201mWanna climb something HIGH but as straightforward as big mountains get? Cho Oyu is the sixth highest mountain on the planet. Our expedition is for climbers who don't want a their hands held by a mountain guide the whole way. Dates: end of Aug - early Oct. +Jamie McGuinness. Amazingly enough we had several groups amounting to around 16 climbers. All expeditions summitted with at least several members. Jamie summited without sherpa support or kitchen. See the Controversy clouds diary. 
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