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Everest 2005



Road trip

Base camp


BC grit

to ABC

The grit at BC

17 April - How we really feel

We prepare for the journey up to ABC

A few climbers have come around to see us, other teams have already headed up to ABC, so everyone is moving up slowly.


Last night Jamie woke up too hot and eventually changed sleeping bags. It isn't -40C and the 5 season bag warm enough to bring a mummy to life was just too much. An old 4 season bag was far more comfortable in the approx -7C night temperatures. This also shows some adaptation to altitude, your system is getting more oxygen and the first at altitude cold shivers have gone. Jamie has a sniffle but to early to say whether this is an infection or not. Time to pack!


If the will is strong, the body will follow. Sukhi is feeling very good, she has been careful with what she eats - no fried food, and not too much, not too little, been sleeping well. When are we going up to ABC, she has always wanted to know? Tomorrow; Sukhi is definitely ready. She has been dreaming and missing family and friends, base camp is a crazy place and mostly lots of wind. The crew have been very supportive though.


For someone who aspires to feeling healthy Moe is the one that has been hardest hit by sickness. First a few days ago a sore throat, which has now gone away, Julian (our doc) reckons the hydrogen peroxide might not have been the best for it, although he was unsure, but salt water definitely helped. Now Moe is battling some diarrhoea and a grumbling stomach. He is on drugs but with GI (gastro-intestinal) problems it is hard to tell what is the right drug so we are waiting. His sister's magic plum and other concoctions don't seem to have fixed him yet, but the 6 or so Loperamide might have stopped him up.

The problem is with the mixture of drugs he is taking it is hard to know what is working and what isn't. At least Moe has plenty of reserves, having been a drug-free body-builder for a while. His expeditions aren't drug-free though!


Julian (and Jamie) have been at BC for a while and knows that ABC isn't any more comfortable - when can we climb this bloody mountain? Not for a long time, that is the reality here, and a surprisingly harsh one here if the wind doesn't stop. This really is a 2 month expedition. Still we haven't broken out the scrabble yet, although we are charging the iPod Shuffles. Julian is missing Clara, his fiancée who should arrive in Darfur, Sudan, in a couple of days. He really is missing her, we are not just saying that!

Dawa,  Temba, Da'Oangchu

Our sherpa crew are all in good health and spirits, and have been playing "timepass" cards, they don't play for money - aren't allowed to play for money, a rule they respect as the best for staying friends. Between Jamie and the crew we think we have everything almost packed.

Dorje and Da'Nuru

Our Tibetan kitchen hands are well; this is Tibet, their home. They have had friends around and if the truth be told, probably don't realise how much carrying they might have to do soon.

18 April

Tomorrow we begin the two day trek to ABC, we will send the next dispatch in a couple of days from ABC!

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© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2005