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Everest 2005



Road trip

Base camp


BC grit

to ABC

at ABC

Ups and downs

ABC Puja

Ups and downs at ABC

Health issues at ABC

Julian is OK but heads to BC, Moe and Sukhi talk a tough walk up to the ropes

22 April - ABC 6400m

A rest day where we visited other camps. Moe is feeling OK but his oxygen saturation isn't the best, perhaps due to other GI sickness and he has a cough. Many people have a cough up here but still, it is debilitating and a little worrying. So over the next day or two we have to work on Moe's health.

Julian consulted another doctor, Marney from another team, and is in a tricky position. He feels good, but he still has pain around his wisdom tooth and despite all the prodding with a syringe, we haven't been able to find and drain an abscess. This possible infection has also affected Julian's oxygen sat's which should be as good as they get, and aren't. Combined with a temperature this means the most sensible course will be to return to BC to recover. The wisdom tooth problem, although only mild at the moment, must be solved before the expedition goes too much further.

23 April - the team splits

Another cool night.

Julian really didn't want to go down but logic dictates he should, and at this stage going down will have absolutely no bearing on his summit attempt. It is very likely that he can clear the problem at BC, and in the unlikely event of having to return to Kathmandu and a dentist there, he still has PLENTY of time to return to the mountain. I have to stress that Julian was one of the fastest climbers in the mountain in 2003, and once he is back in form will only be waiting for good weather. So Julian and Temba set off for the thicker air of BC around 9am this morning.

Julian and temba about to set off - Temba will be able to bring up fresh supplies too.

For Moe and Sukhi today was a test, a walk to the bottom of the fixed ropes, a gain of around 300m. Moe was slow but steady, Sukhi no problems at all.

Right, Da'Oangchu, Sukhi and Moe in the front, walking over the glacier to the bottom of the fixed ropes. Other climbers are ascending the ropes to the North Col, not quite visible.

Moe returning into the colourful mass of tents at ABC.
Lhakpa Ri, 7045m, is centre-right, and a peak that we organise expeditions to.

Jamie? Jamie is in 98% health and so no problem, and is feeling strong.

Our sherpa and Tibetan team is in fine form and our warm kitchen has a string of visitors.

Tomorrow: our puja, or showing respect for the mountain.

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© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2005