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Everest 2005

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Kathmandu-Lhasa

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North Col aborted

North Col load carry 2

Dawa, Jamie carry; Sukhi and and Da'Oangchu stay at North Col

Sukhi is the first of our team to sleep at North Col

26 April - North Col load carry

Dawa and Jamie carried up the food for Sukhi and Da'Oangchu. We made the return trip in 5 hours - cruising!

Sukhi and Da'Oangchu ascended more slowly with Karma (from Bhutan, and with Arun) since they were all staying the night up there. Sukhi reported in the evening that she was feeling good and no headache.

The second ladder provides a safer passage than the snow bridge below;
the first tents of the Russian's North Col camp are visible.

27 April - Sukhi at North Col 7040m

What a glorious morning! A morning for washing and drying and sorting. By radio Sukhi and Da'Oangchu reported they slept well. Sukhi has a problem with her crampom strap but we will be able to fix.

Moe still has diarrhoea, somewhat debilitating; several days ago Jamie started one drug and Moe another. Jamie's has worked, it seems, and Moe's hasn't, so he is now on the same drug as Jamie. Moe is also coughing a bit, so still not 100%. It is likely that unless Moe dramatically improves by tomorrow morning the best course of action will be to return to BC to recover. At 5200m there is significantly more oxygen and so the body can heal. Where we are at ABC, 6400m/21,000ft, it is too high for people to live permanently, indeed only people with high oxygen saturation readings seem to be able to stay here comfortably, and that is less than half of the climbers here. The Sherpas and Tibetans have a distinct genetic advantage and handle the altitude better.

We have a small pulse-oximeter, gives your pulse and the oxygen saturation of your blood. At sea level a normal saturation at rest is 99% and in hospital if your saturation is under about 95% you are put on oxygen, and if your saturation is below 90% you are considered to be potentially mentally confused. Jamie's saturation is good for this altitude, 78-81%, Moe is similar to several other climbers here at ABC who don't feel that good, 66-73%; it is likely that his sickness is keeping his saturation down. That might give you an idea of what the body is coping with up here.

Moe not happy with his pulse-ox reading

Your pulse is also an indicator of if you are acclimatized. At a new, higher altitude your pulse can be as high as 100 beats a minute, sometimes higher. Once you have been several days at the same altitude then your pulse should be almost normal at rest, except after food, or after strenuous exercise, or if you are sick. 

Julian has been at BC and today we expect him up at ABC.

Paul is now at Changtse BC with his Lhakpa Ri group.

So that is our team, scattered at the moment, but in a few days everything will come together.

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