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Everest 2005

The team



Road trip

Base camp


BC grit

to ABC

at ABC

Ups and downs

ABC Puja

North Col loads

North Col 2

More from ABC

North Col aborted

Paul joins us

All OK at ABC

Back to BC


Moving up


Social and comfortable but we are here to climb a mountain

Moe feels good, Sukhi needs to get fitter and when do we head up to ABC?

10 May - Rongbuk

We trekked to Rongbuk, around 7-8kms, or rather most of us did; Sukhi took a motorbike down. We wandered around the gompa but according to Dawa it wasn't an auspicious day so we didn't make a puja; on the morning of the 11th Dawa and Namgyal went down to put up some more prayer flags.

Dawa and Namgyal admire a footprint of Lama Sangwa Dorje, the patron-saint of the Khumbu, who reputedly flew around the region leaving these marks on landing.

After a basic lunch we trekked back into the STRONG headwind. Sukhi found it particularly tough going, showing she isn't as acclimatised as she should be. However Moe is now in form, which we are pleased about.

Julian still has a niggling mouth/jaw? infection and is hoping to meet the dentist again, but it does seem to be going away slowly with drugs. He is on

11 May - BC - are we obsessed by food?

Moe is feeling 100%, as demonstrated over lunch.

Spam and mustard is king - I can actually taste this food!
(after weeks of antibiotics, just finished)

Moe, Mike, Al, Chris (hidden, Germany), Rosa (Spain), Sigrid (Norway), Ryan, Aud (Norway) and Scott over lunch, cramped but fun

Paul after a strenuous morning fitness hike enjoys a rare treat
(also note the remains of fresh bread)

Paul's photo of half of BC; our camp is the bottom right, the Chinese squares are next to us, a rather larger expedition. Note the river running across the mid-upper part of the photo is still frozen.

Our plans

We have been debating when to head up again for our summit attempt, and for a variety of reasons, it is a tough decision. However we have plenty of time and don't have to hit the first summit window, unlike some other teams. Part of the problem was on 9 May it was so windy that it would have been difficult to even trek up to ABC, and the strong winds are forecast to continue. Only a few tents around BC have been destroyed as most teams are prepared for the high wind, more than 35mph/56km/h or around 16m/s.

Team Ogawa - spies no longer

We have solved the weather forecast saga, international incident no longer; the first forecast they have just paid for says "The forecast models are ALL over the place in this time frame. Thus, not a lot of confidence in this right now." But we did have a worthwhile discussion on summit strategies and other details.

The team (less sherpas who are at ABC) are now reunited, Al having returned from the comforts of Tingri (and brought the watermelon back). They are, as are we, in the process of deciding when to return to ABC for the summit attempt. Everyone is fit and healthy. Ryan says he can smell himself thru his Windstopper jacket; he has reached a new level of manliness.

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© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2005