Ups and downs
North Col loads
North Col 2
More from ABC
North Col aborted
Paul joins us
All OK at ABC
Back to BC
Paul: North Col
Duncan to ABC
Summit push 2
Meet the climbers and the crew
All our staff have worked together on many, many treks and
expeditions together, right to the Tibetan kitchen hands. We really do have a
great team behind the climbers.
We had a successful expedition - no deaths, no frostbite,
indeed nobody even left early. I don't think any other north side expedition can
say that, perhaps apart from Russell Brice.
Our client success rate was 50%, our less quick members needed more luck, more
oxygen and a better weather window to summit. The weather wasn't kind this
Dr Julian Thompson, UK
Julian is no stranger to expeditions, among many having skied from Resolute
Bay in search of the Magnetic North Pole, skied down Mustagh Ata and was on Everest in 2003
where sickness and an nightmare expedition set up stopped him summitting. He met
Jamie then. Fast and strong, Julian is also a doctor.
Rupert, his normal expedition buddy, is skiing the length of Greenland,
in a replica of the Scott-Admunsen race.
Summitted: 30 May, 2005. VERY HAPPY!
Moe Memon, USA
Make no mistake Moe is a big guy, a drug-free body builder.
Moe helps run the family business,
punk and fetish wear, which seems to equal street wear in Southern California!
Moe has climbed plenty in the Andes and in the USA, and last year was on Cho
Oyu, but sickness stopped him summitting.
High point: 7650m, as Moe said
himself he needs a good weather window, and we didn't get one. Arrived weighing
210lbs, left 35lbs lighter!
Sukhwinder Sukhi, India
From Muktsar, a city of 400,000, Sukhi as we call her, raised money with a
support team and family. She arrived in Kathmandu with nothing except the money
for the expedition, and as a small part of the sponsorship Jamie provided half
of her gear.
There are several other Indian teams on the mountain; however Sukhi is
climbing independently, although by the sounds politics is never far from view.
High point: 7750m.
Paul Boslooper, Netherlands
Paul runs HTWandelreizen in the Netherlands, and joined
us for Cho Oyu in 2003, summitting with Namgyal, and now he is on Everest with
He is joining
us late, at the beginning of May, having taken a trekking group around the
Everest region Nepal side, then the same team up Lhakpa Ri (7045m), close to
Summitted: 4 June, 2005.
Expedition manager, Jamie has previously summitted Everest working as a
climbing sherpa and organized the fixed rope money for the sherpas in 2003. He
has also summitted Cho Oyu 5 times, Broad Peak, and Shishapangma Central summit
Summitted: 31 May, 2003. This time on 1 June reached the First Step
before turning around due to high winds and cold.
One of the better-known and most popular climbing sirdars, and at least 18
Everest expeditions under his crampons, we are privileged to have him working
Dawa has a calming presence about him, befitting an ex-lama, equally
shouldering a load, serving meals and lending his depth of experience to
decision-making, all with his warm and generous smile.
Summitted: 30 May,
2005, and Lhotse-Everest double in 2003.
Director of DCXP Mountain Journeys, based in Adelaide.
Duncan joined us part way thru the
expedition after some fast paperwork by Suman, so we were the only team on the
mountain to get bigger.
Summitted:, 2001. This time he accompanied Julian to
the 7900m camp and set off with him, but with lungs suddenly filling with 'green
goo', he turned back a little above Camp 3.
We had two trekking-climbing groups come up during the expedition, Kipa was
guide both times. Although he might not tell you, he has summitted Cho Oyu,
Dhaulagiri, Shishapangma, Lhotse, and many other mountains.
Carrying a vital load to 8300m in 2003, Temba (and myself as climbing sherpa)
were the reason Banjo was able to summit.
This year he combined being cook with carrying loads up to 7900m. The other
sherpas, all previously cooks too, took over when he was on the mountain.
At 27 Namgyal has quickly risen thru the trekking ranks with hard work and
dedication to bettering himself; when I first met him he barely spoke English
yet insisted in doing everything in English.
He climbed Cho Oyu first time working as a cook, as many of our aspiring
He enjoys rock climbing and yoga, and is a thoroughly nice guy.
Summitted: 4 June, 2005, his first time.
On his first 8000m peak Da'Oangchu worked hard carrying loads and equally as
hard, working as Sukhi's sherpa.
Summitted: 30 May, 2005, his first time.
Honest, quiet and hardworking, Dorje is on his fifth expedition with Jamie,
always a sight in the kitchen in his traditional Tibetan dress.
On his third expedition with Jamie, Da'Nuru is clean and hard-working,
typically breaking ice for water and chopping vegetables and cleaning dishes.
We are sharing a base camp setup with Arun treks, although in fact Gyanu is
DCXP's star cook. Consequently BC is comfortable, and the soups don't have the
almost obligatory garlic and ginger in them.
The Seattle boys
They were "Team Alongi" but Duncan calls them "team A-long-gone-i" as Brook,
their leader, left a couple of weeks into the expedition. Despite that they
managed just fine, but were often found in our dining tent.
Scott, Ryan, Michael, Lhakpa, (Julian from our team), Da'Ngima, Al and Ambrose
On 21 May, 2005, Michael, Lhakpa and Da'Ngima summitted.