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Everest 2005

The team

 

DCXP dispatches

 

Kathmandu-Lhasa

Road trip

Base camp

exploring

BC grit

to ABC

at ABC

Ups and downs

ABC Puja

North Col loads

North Col 2

More from ABC

North Col aborted

Paul joins us

All OK at ABC

Back to BC

At BC

Moving up

ABC again

ABC waiting

Paul: North Col

First summits

Duncan to ABC

Summitteers

Our plans

Michael's summit

Lhakpa Ri

Summit push!

Summit push 2

Nearly summit

Julian summits

Paul summits!

Sukhi's story

 

8000m history

Our team

Meet the climbers and the crew

All our staff have worked together on many, many treks and expeditions together, right to the Tibetan kitchen hands. We really do have a great team behind the climbers.

We had a successful expedition - no deaths, no frostbite, indeed nobody even left early. I don't think any other north side expedition can say that, perhaps apart from Russell Brice.
Our client success rate was 50%, our less quick members needed more luck, more oxygen and a better weather window to summit. The weather wasn't kind this season.

Dr Julian Thompson, UK

Julian is no stranger to expeditions, among many having skied from Resolute Bay in search of the Magnetic North Pole, skied down Mustagh Ata and was on Everest in 2003 where sickness and an nightmare expedition set up stopped him summitting. He met Jamie then. Fast and strong, Julian is also a doctor.

Rupert, his normal expedition buddy, is skiing the length of Greenland, in a replica of the Scott-Admunsen race.

Summitted: 30 May, 2005. VERY HAPPY!

Moe Memon, USA

Make no mistake Moe is a big guy, a drug-free body builder.

Moe helps run the family business, ElectricChair.com, punk and fetish wear, which seems to equal street wear in Southern California!

Moe has climbed plenty in the Andes and in the USA, and last year was on Cho Oyu, but sickness stopped him summitting.

High point: 7650m, as Moe said himself he needs a good weather window, and we didn't get one. Arrived weighing 210lbs, left 35lbs lighter!

Sukhwinder Sukhi, India

From Muktsar, a city of 400,000, Sukhi as we call her, raised money with a support team and family. She arrived in Kathmandu with nothing except the money for the expedition, and as a small part of the sponsorship Jamie provided half of her gear.

There are several other Indian teams on the mountain; however Sukhi is climbing independently, although by the sounds politics is never far from view.

High point: 7750m.

Paul Boslooper, Netherlands

Paul runs HTWandelreizen in the Netherlands, and joined us for Cho Oyu in 2003, summitting with Namgyal, and now he is on Everest with us.

He is joining us late, at the beginning of May, having taken a trekking group around the Everest region Nepal side, then the same team up Lhakpa Ri (7045m), close to Everest ABC.

Summitted: 4 June, 2005.

Jamie McGuinness

Expedition manager, Jamie has previously summitted Everest working as a climbing sherpa and organized the fixed rope money for the sherpas in 2003. He has also summitted Cho Oyu 5 times, Broad Peak, and Shishapangma Central summit twice.

Summitted: 31 May, 2003. This time on 1 June reached the First Step before turning around due to high winds and cold.

Da'Gelje

One of the better-known and most popular climbing sirdars, and at least 18 Everest expeditions under his crampons, we are privileged to have him working for us.

Dawa has a calming presence about him, befitting an ex-lama, equally shouldering a load, serving meals and lending his depth of experience to decision-making, all with his warm and generous smile.

Summitted: 30 May, 2005, and Lhotse-Everest double in 2003.

Duncan Chessell

Director of DCXP Mountain Journeys, based in Adelaide.

Duncan joined us part way thru the expedition after some fast paperwork by Suman, so we were the only team on the mountain to get bigger.

Summitted:, 2001. This time he accompanied Julian to the 7900m camp and set off with him, but with lungs suddenly filling with 'green goo', he turned back a little above Camp 3.

Kipa Sherpa

We had two trekking-climbing groups come up during the expedition, Kipa was guide both times. Although he might not tell you, he has summitted Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Shishapangma, Lhotse, and many other mountains.

Temba Sherpa

Carrying a vital load to 8300m in 2003, Temba (and myself as climbing sherpa) were the reason Banjo was able to summit.

This year he combined being cook with carrying loads up to 7900m. The other sherpas, all previously cooks too, took over when he was on the mountain.

Namgyal Sherpa

At 27 Namgyal has quickly risen thru the trekking ranks with hard work and dedication to bettering himself; when I first met him he barely spoke English yet insisted in doing everything in English.

He climbed Cho Oyu first time working as a cook, as many of our aspiring staff have.

He enjoys rock climbing and yoga, and is a thoroughly nice guy.

Summitted: 4 June, 2005, his first time.

Da'Oangchu

On his first 8000m peak Da'Oangchu worked hard carrying loads and equally as hard, working as Sukhi's sherpa.

Summitted: 30 May, 2005, his first time.

Dorje

Honest, quiet and hardworking, Dorje is on his fifth expedition with Jamie, always a sight in the kitchen in his traditional Tibetan dress.

Da'Nuru

On his third expedition with Jamie, Da'Nuru is clean and hard-working, typically breaking ice for water and chopping vegetables and cleaning dishes.

Gyanu Shrestha

We are sharing a base camp setup with Arun treks, although in fact Gyanu is DCXP's star cook. Consequently BC is comfortable, and the soups don't have the almost obligatory garlic and ginger in them.

 

The Seattle boys

They were "Team Alongi" but Duncan calls them "team A-long-gone-i" as Brook, their leader, left a couple of weeks into the expedition. Despite that they managed just fine, but were often found in our dining tent.

Scott, Ryan, Michael, Lhakpa, (Julian from our team), Da'Ngima, Al and Ambrose

On 21 May, 2005, Michael, Lhakpa and Da'Ngima summitted.

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© Jamie McGuinness - Project-Himalaya.com -  2005