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The Chadar 2005: the Zanskari people
Why climb the multiple passes to get out of Zanskar when you can trek the frozen river in winter?
We spend time in the villages around Zangla, here is why.
Photos by Joel (Nikon Coolpix 5400, with a wide angle adaptor) and Ben and Diana (Canon Powershot A75).
We will be trekking the route again - see Our treks.
Aspirations: a road coming to you soon.
Some places we stayed at were light and airy, others as
traditional as it gets.
In Neraks we visited Stanzins' uncles house for tea, and to buy Chang. Stanzin holds his young cousin.
Still snowing, still snotting.
Here we visit morning puja by the nuns of Zangla Nunnery, who
gave us a delightful welcome.
Here we waited again for the snow to stop, watching trekkers giving up on the Chadar, plodding back to Padum and evacuation;
they mainly gave up at the dam we eventually crossed.
The summer sitting area at Stanzin's house in Zangla was our kitchen; the 3rd
(and not the last) time his family has welcomed us.
We also visit in the summer, and our trekkers have brought many yak hair rugs made by Stanzin's
mother (below) and sisters. Here his Nephew Tenzin investigates our kitchen; note the balls of yak and sheep wool hanging up,
the poplar braches that insulate the roof, and the sacks of tsampa behind.
Bread is baked about 3 times a week in winter; the flat stone
over the fire
is the griddle on which it is baked, this bread is for a puja that day.
Wow. The beauty of digital cameras by Ben.