We visit all the main villages of Upper Dolpo and really have time to appreciate the region. Our itinerary is well planned with appropriate time for acclimatization to altitude and the multiple rest days can handle unscheduled delays, and there is a variety in the length of trekking days with some half-days to/from villages, giving time to further wander around locally and enjoy.
Although this is the itinerary we plan, we adapt the itinerary to conditions and to the trekkers along with us.
A prior to your arrival in Kathmandu we send out an email with detailed arrival instructions including the visa procedure, meeting our staff, contact details and changing money etc.
Day 0 - early arrival
We suggest arriving today to recover from long flights and have an additional day to recover from the time zone changes, which are particularly brutal if coming from North America.
Providing you have sent us your arrival details, you will be met at the airport our staff and escorted to the hotel where the leader will meet you. We book the extra nights in our hotel for you and can arrange sightseeing for tomorrow too.
Day 1 - arrive Kathmandu 1350m
If you want to spend the minimum amount if time in Kathmandu then you can arrive today before midday so that we can take your passport to finish the permit process. You’ll be met at the airport by our staff so look out for a sign with your name on it.
You have the rest of the day free to explore Thamel. Thamel is a mass of energy and chaos with a myriad banners, signs, pumping music shops, bakeries, internet cafes, restaurants, bars, hotels and eccentrically clad backpackers. Normally, we meet at the hotel reception area at 6pm for a briefing and perhaps head to Sam's bar for a drink before dinner.
2 - fly Nepalgunj 165m (/permits)
We have the morning in Kathmandu for last minute shopping or some sightseeing while the office finishes the various permits needed. Checking out of the hotel before lunch, we have lunch nearby in Thamel then head to the chaotic domestic airport for our afternoon flight. Flying along the Himalaya to Nepalgunj, Nepal's western flight hub, the high mountain panoramas are breathtaking in clear weather. Sit on the right hand side of the plane if possible for the best views, which include no less than four of the 14x 8000m peaks, and a dozen other significant and stunning peaks. Coming in to land is an insight to the Tarai, a patchwork of fields and farm houses interspersed with forest as far as the eye can see.
Nepalgunj is always steamy so we stay at the best hotel with very necessary air-conditioning. Wandering around is stepping back in time, cycle rickshaws and horse tongas, the heat-slowed pace of the Tarai plains.
3 - fly Juphal 2490m, trek to good camp before Suligad 2280m
We are up smartly for an early morning flight by small plane to Juphal, the 2015-black topped airstrip for Dunai, the district headquarters of the Dolpo district. Good visibility is critical for this exciting 45 minute flight, the mountains around are too high to fly over, and it is an exciting landing on the 600m airstrip.
Leaving the airport we take a another step back in time. Although many groups head to Dunai for the first night there is no need to so we avoid the bustle and instead we stay at a peaceful, relatively new campsite that is a couple of hours walk from the airstrip.
4 - trek to Chepka 2675m
Although the most direct route along the river is the easiest, there is also a high route that sees virtually no trekkers that we have previously trekked as an option. Both routes are delightful trekking, as is our camp which is near the river surrounded by pine forest.
Trekking the high route - Jamie
5 - trek to Amchi clinic ~3100m near Sumdowa
This is another delightful day along the forested gorge passing through birch, deciduous larches, and fir trees, some with autumn colours. From our lunch spot, Rechi which is run by women from Ringmu, it really starts to feel taht we are in Tibetan country with flat roofed houses and fields of buckwheat. Our camp is near the Amchi clinic and Tapriza school (supported by Marietta, a Swiss friend who spent 6 months living up here years ago). This is the confluence of the Pungmo Chu, which comes from the Kagmara La, and the Suli Gad/Phoksundo Khola.
Collecting fire wood - Jamie
6 - trek to Phoksundo Lake 3725m
*I hope a picture is worth a thousand words; I am filling out the detailed itinerary notes over time!*
Trekking up the Suli Gad (river) - Jamie
7 - Phoksundo Lake 3725m
Rest, explore and acclimatize.
That colour! - Jamie
8 - trek to Forest Camp 3725m via 4000m passes
I have to say again, the colour of Phoksundo is unreal yet there it is, a view to never tire of.
Starting on the trail around the lake, we enter Upper Dolpo proper, and what a start. The trail is wide and good, and utterly spectacular, make sure your camera battery is fully charged and you have extra memory available.
In the movie Himalaya, it is this section where the yak fell off into the lake and the two stars are left standing on a ledge- hopefully, we won't have to relive this scene!
Phoksundo Lake and our trail around the right side (west side) - Jamie
9 - trek to Two Rivers Camp ~3800m
This is a "lunch camp"; we reach camp for lunch, so a partial rest day.
No bridge but plenty of helping hands - Jamie
10 - trek to High Camp ~4900m
There are two routes over to Shey and most groups take the more direct route however we prefer a pass slightly to the north that offers wonderful panoramas and partly circles Crystal Mountain. Our camp this evening is at a high camp area for the pass.
Looking back to the Kanjirowa range - Jamie
11 - trek to Shey Gompa 4375m via Shyurik La ~5150m
We have had a week or so of trekking at reasonable altitudes to prepare us for our first high pass which is on straightforward terrain. The views are sensational but from the top of the pass and all the way to Shey Gompa, where we camp.
Our horse team climbing up the ridge to our special Crystal Mountain pass - Jamie
12 - Shey (Shelri Sumdo) Gompa 4375m
Rest, wash clothes, explore to the other gompa, or even do a kora of Crystal Mountain.
These are the Tsakhang gompas on the Crystal Mountain kora - Jamie
13 - trek to Tata 3920m or Shyamling Gompa
This is particularly tough trekking, a rarely trekked route and logistically challenging. If conditions are not perfect or we had delayed flights to Juphal instead we will trek the normal route to Saldang over two days.
I am really looking forward to this section, it will be cultural and scenic.
A yak shepherds a nak (female yak) amid the autumn colours near Namgung - Jamie
14 - trek to Bhijer 3850m
Traditional chuba-clad girls of Dolpo - Jamie
15 - trek to Nengla pass high camp ~4950m
16 - trek to Saldang 3770m via Nengla La 5368m
Don't believe "It never rains in Dolpo" - it might be rain shadow but it can still rain! - Jamie
17 - Saldang 3770m
Relax and explore the gompa, village and culture.
18 - trek Komang (Khoma) 4060m
To reach the remote Upper Dolpo villages we cross a broad ridge, camping in the middle of it tonight.
19 - trek to Mendo ~3900m
20 - trek to Tinje 4110m
21 - trek to Rapka 4535m
Following the wandering paths of the Panzang Valley - Jamie
22 - trek to Mola La high camp
Celesta checks out a trader's Tibetan pony - Jamie
23 - trek to Chharka 4110m via over Chharka La/Mola La 5030m
Chharka blending with the terrain - Jamie
24 - trek to river junctions camp
We spend the morning in Chharka and after lunch walk a couple of hours to our camp.
Paul and Celesta cruising along a good section of trail near Chharka - Jamie
25 - trek to High Camp ~5000m
We turn up a wonderful, wide valley.
Ornella wanders into our high camp for the Junben La - Jamie
26 - trek to Sangta Ghok via 3x passes
This is a tough, satisfying day. From the Niwas La 5120m instead of descending we continue climbing over the ridge beside to the next pass, the Jungben La at 5550m and after crossing a stream, finally cross a third ~5400m pass before a steep descent.
27 - trek to Sangta 3710m
After a tough day yesterday, this is a "lunch camp" trek day.
Sangta village - Jamie
28 - trek to Phalyak 3175m via the Bhima Lojun La 4460m
It is a delightful rising traverse around to the pass on the ridge, and from there arid Upper Mustang beckons. The descent is similar, a descending traverse, unusual for Nepal trekking passes, and after some canyons we pop out to terraced fields and a beautiful village, different in character from Dolpo.
Rounding the Bhima Lojun La with a stunning panorama to Upper Mustang - Jamie
29 - trek to Jomsom 2725m
This is an easy day and perhaps a bit of a shock to the system as Jomsom is filled with lodges and shops.
30 - fly Jomsom-Pokhara-Kathmandu
Machhapuchre from near Pokhara - Jamie
Day 31 - depart
32 - optional departure
We recommend either an evening departure on Day 31 or allowing an extra day post-trek in Kathmandu in case of flight delays out of Jomsom. Alternatively we can arrange an overnight stay in Pokhara and an excursion to Chitwan National Park for a jungle safari to extend your trip.
Tashi Delek and Namaste!